Collection: Princess Cut Engagement Rings

A princess cut diamond is a square shaped diamond with pointed corners. It is a popular diamond cut for engagement rings and is known for its modern, clean lines and brilliant sparkle.

The princess cut diamond was first created in the 1960s and has since become a sought-after choice for those looking for a square or rectangular shape with a similar brilliance to round brilliant cut diamonds. The cut typically features numerous facets, often around 58-76, which allow for excellent light reflection and maximum sparkle.

Princess cut diamonds tend to be more affordable compared to certain other diamond cuts, such as round brilliant cut diamonds. This is because during the cutting process, less of the rough diamond is wasted when creating a princess cut, resulting in a higher yield. This higher yield helps to reduce the overall cost of production, making princess cut diamonds relatively more affordable, meaning that it is possible for you to get more diamond carat weight for your money. 

Yes, Princess cut diamonds can exhibit a bow tie effect. The bow tie effect refers to the shadowy pattern resembling a bow tie that can be seen in some fancy-shaped diamonds when viewed from certain angles. It typically appears in the centre of the diamond and occurs due to the interaction of light with the diamond's facets and internal structures.

While not all princess cut diamonds will display a pronounced bow tie effect, it is relatively common in this particular cut due to its pavilion facets. The extent and visibility of the bow tie effect can vary depending on the specific diamond and the quality of its cut.

You need to ensure that you can view a video of a princess diamond and ideally get it reviewed by an expert before you buy. At Ethica, we are very happy to take a look at the cut quality of the princess diamond for your ring and advise you accordingly; just get in touch and we will be happy to help.

Overall, the presence of a bow tie in a Princess cut diamond is not recommended. It refers to a dark, bow tie-shaped shadow that can appear in the centre of a diamond which is caused by variations in light reflection within the diamond and is common in fancy-shaped diamonds, including the Princess cut. However, whether or not the presence of a bow tie effect is recommended for a Princess cut diamond is subjective and depends on personal preference. Some individuals appreciate the unique aesthetic appeal that the bow tie effect adds to the diamond, while others may prefer a more even distribution of light.

Pros:

1. Brilliant and Sparkling: Princess cut diamonds are known for their brilliant and sparkling appearance due to their multiple facets and unique shape.

2. Versatile: Princess cut diamonds work well with different styles of engagement ring settings, making them suitable for various design preferences.

3. Modern: Princess cut diamonds are considered modern and often favoured by those who want a contemporary look.

4. Cost-Effective: Compared to other diamond cuts, princess cut diamonds can offer better value for money. They tend to be less expensive per carat than round brilliant cut diamonds.

Cons:

1. Susceptible to Chips: The corners of Princess cut diamonds can be vulnerable to chipping due to their pointed edges. It is important to choose a setting that incorporates protective prongs to reduce the risk of damage.

2. Bow Tie Effect: Princess cut diamonds can sometimes display a bow tie effect, which is a dark shadow or reflective pattern in the centre of the diamond resembling a bow tie. The severity of the bow tie effect can vary and may affect the overall beauty of the stone if it is prominent.

3. Visible Inclusions: The Princess cut's large and open table can make any inclusions or flaws within the diamond more visible compared to other cuts. It is important to choose a Princess cut diamond with a high clarity grade to minimise the visibility of inclusions.

The princess cut diamond, also known as a square modified brilliant, was first created in the 1960s by diamond cutter Arpad Nagy. It was designed to maximise the brilliance and fire of a diamond while maintaining a square shape. In 1971, the diamond cutter Basil Watermeyer patented a new diamond cut with the name “the Barion”. This looked already a bit like the princess, but the many symmetrical lines of the Barion made it very difficult to cut this shape correctly. Years later, this name changed into the princess cut diamond.

Choosing the perfect princess cut stone for your engagement ring is slightly more difficult than selecting a round brilliant cut, since the certification does not give any indication for how the stone will sparkle by giving a cut grade. The certificate gives you the grades for the colour, clarity, symmetry and polish, but how the diamond actually looks is not indicated on the certificate, since fancy cut diamonds such as princess shape are not given a cut grade. This is because standard cut parameters are unachievable due to the complex and unique structure of the princess cut; there is no strict table % or depth %.

For a good balance of brilliance to size ratio, we recommend a depth of 65% - 73% and a table of less than 75%, although the table percentage is more down to personal preference.

You need to ensure that you can view a video of a princess diamond and ideally get it reviewed by an expert before you buy. At Ethica, we are very happy to take a look at the cut quality of the princess diamond for your ring and advise you accordingly; just get in touch and we will be happy to help.

The colour we recommend for a princess cut diamond is between G-H if you are looking for the best value for money. Being a brilliant cut, the princess cut has a lot of light play which makes identifying the true colour of the rough material more difficult, meaning you can get away with a lower colour grade compared to other cuts such as an emerald cut diamond. 

As the princess cut is a good cut for masking imperfections, it means that budget is better used elsewhere, such as the carat weight. Just be careful not to go too low on clarity though; just because the diamond may be eye clean, inclusions within the diamond are weaknesses within the structure, which makes the diamond more susceptible to chipping. A princess cut diamond is already more vulnerable to chipping because of its sharp corners, that's why we recommend a clarity of VS for the best value for money and balance of integrity.